Bob Mackie is considered one the most outrageous of designers, creating some of the most spectacularly outré costumes of the last 55 years. Remember the feathered headdress and skimpy, sparkling halter top Cher wore to the 1986 Oscars? Or the hilarious curtain rod dress Carol Burnett wore in her parody of Gone with the Wind? Both were created by Mackie. It is fitting, then, that one of the most sensational objects in GMD's collection bears his signature.
Bob Mackie [born 1940], Jacket, 1988, silk, feathers. Gift of Emily Willard 2005.001.015
Constructed from yellow silk faille and trimmed with silver braid, this bolero jacket makes a humorous play on the shoulder angel and devil convention. Both horses are embroidered with chenille yarn; their manes created with long, fluttering black and white feathers. Whimsical details include rhinestone buckles on each bridle and three-dimensional stand up embroidered ears.
Mackie has famously declared that "A woman who wears my clothes is not afraid to be noticed." Emily Willard, the jacket's generous donor, made a career of being noticed. As an elegant - and tiny! - ballerina living in New York, Willard amassed a large collection of flamboyant 1980s fashions, including this gorgeous evening gown embellished with bugle beads, rhinestones, and a huge iridescent burgundy bow.
Bob Mackie evening dress, bugle beads, rhinestones. Gift of Emily Willard 2005.001.016a-b
Willard wore her jacket with a simple black wool crepe sheath with spaghetti straps, similar to the one featured in this Vogue fashion spread from September 1988. The text explains that this one "striking accessory" was enough to "make" any look. Note, however, the Vogue model's oversize black and white star-shaped earrings and permed and teased hair - the 80s were an era when more was definitely more!
"Something Different Is Happening This Fall." Vogue 178, no. 9 (September 1, 1988), 633.
Posted by Goldstein Museum of Design at 1:37 PM
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