Through the first week in Mombasa
We are nearly through the Orientation week the Foundation for Sustainable Development has created for the incoming interns for the Mombasa program. It began on the 23rd and will conclude on the 29th. I along with six other interns have been fortunate to not only have a very supportive site team to help us with the adjustment but were also treated to meeting Dr. Alicia Robb, the founder and President of FSD who was helping with the set up of the new permanent offices in Mombasa Town.
After less than a week in Mombasa, it seems a lifetime away from the setting of the United States even if our time among the community has been limited. Our days have been regimented with morning Kiswahili lessons and afternoons of culture orientation. Our, mwalimu (teacher) Penina has been a great guide and my language ability has greatly improved in the small span of time. Still, there is much to learn before I truly feel comfortable with my communication skills. It is a considerably easier language to learn than English. Combining African Bantu language with pieces from other languages coming to East Africa through historic trade routes.
Interesting note on Kiswahili: Verbs are formed from subject+tense+verb
Subject: ni (I), u (you), a (he/she), tu (we), m(you {pl}), wa(they); Tense: na (present), li (past), ta (future).
The verb "kujua" (to know) would be formed: ninajua (I know), nilijua (I knew), nitajua (I will know)
The latter part of the day has been devoted to areas of development, culture shock, security, safety, and health. We begin with breakfast in the morning at 7:30AM and end with dinner at 7:00PM. It's dark by that time as we are just south of the equator so one's mind begins to get tired and fall asleep at 9:00pm. This has been the arduous schedule over the last few days, but it is worth the payoff of being acclimated to the people of Mombasa.
In Mombasa, I am a mzungu. A mzungu (mmm zoon goo) is a white/ european/ American/ Westerner. It is said where ever my colleagues and I go as a reference to our group of caucasians. It is not necessarily a derogatory term but does differentiate you from others in a form that I have not experienced in America. A majority of people of Mombasa are good natured and friendly when approached but there is an anti-American sentiment in areas of the city. Our group experience one instance as we were walking through Old Town of Mombasa Town. As we passed a shop of a group of young men yelled after us, "Why do you come through a black neighborhood, we hate America." There are security issues in Kenya to be sure. It is recommended that we not go out at night and if we do to do so in groups. We're to avoid political rallies resist the urge to act as the European tourists. Obsessive picture taking will only attract people asking you to pay them for inadvertently taking their picture.
Overall I am well. Some days I shower myself in more mosquito repellent than with actual shower water. Hand sanitizer, mosquito repellent, sun screen, malarone (malaria prevention medicine), and multi-vitamens fill my daily routine. Don't drink the water and don't eat uncooked foods. As of the moment I have no problems while some of my intern colleagues are spending the day at the doctors with unidentified red dots and upset stomachs.
The spectrum of life in Mombasa is wide and dynamic. As of now I am living on the South coast of Likoni and take a ferry to Mombasa Town (an island in the center of the city). It is the only form of transit to Likoni and you will see pedestrians and autos together heading across. You can see rich Mzungus in Toyotas with morning coffee at one end and barefoot young men pushing a 9ft tall cart of vegetables you wouldn't dream of eating in middle class American at the other end. At the North coast across from the other side of the island you wil find a state of the art cinemax showing new Ameican and Bollywood releases. It is surrounded by contemporary Indian restaurants and a pizzeria catering to the tourists of Nyali Beach. Across the street is one of the largest slums in Kenya numbering in the thousands. People live in cardboard boxes which fall apart in the rain.
The first few days were overwhelming, One of the interns who arrived Wednesday left for the U.S. Friday mainly because of a family emergency but he was also extremely taken aback by the situtation of many people and, at times, felt powerless to work in his organization. This feeling arises in everyone now and again but the open atmosphere of FSD allows us to discuss these issues.
I will be leaving orientation Tuesday, beginning life with my host family and starting work Wednesday. More entries to come by this weekend. Thank you for your support.
Comments
Ben,
You’ve experienced much this first week in Mombasa! I’m sure your site team is providing you with valuable insight to your scenario. I’m pleased to hear that Penina , your mwalimu,
is a good connection for you as well. It looks like life as a mzungu puts one out of one’s comfort zone, both physically and emotionally. It presents a struggle... but you know in the end we learn so much from the struggles presented to us in life. It is in the struggle that the most growth is gained. I know you’ll do great. I know you will be a presence of the kind of American I want the world to see.
Tutaonana
Be safe,
Love Dad
Posted by: Bob Marcy | May 28, 2007 12:19 PM
Ben,"hongera sana!" (Congratulations) What a wonderful experience. Your dad sent me your blog address and I just am so impressed with what you are doing and with your dedication to learn the language. I am sure your host family will feel very fortunate to have you. The details you added to your "first week in Mombasa" made me feel as if I were there with you. Keep up the good work.
~Kenyatta~
Posted by: Kenyatta | May 28, 2007 04:21 PM
Ben,
You are such an interesting writer! Your words are eloquent and show great sensitivity and compassion. You make us all proud. I have a feeling it may be a challenge to write such comprehensive notes once you get into a more definite routine. It is great to hear from you. It makes it seem that you are across the street rather than across the world! Take care of yourself. Hugs from Springfield.
Bev
Posted by: Bev | May 29, 2007 07:37 AM
SO GOOD to hear about your first week .
It makes us so proud of your endeavor.
We are certain your experiences can teach us all some lessons. We are so privileged to have you as a grandson. Our thoughts
and prayers are with you constanly.
Lots of Love
Grandma & Grandpa Marcy
Posted by: Grandpa & Grandma | May 30, 2007 01:46 AM
SO GOOD to hear about your first week .
It makes us so proud of your endeavor.
We are certain your experiences can teach us all some lessons. We are so privileged to have you as a grandson. Our thoughts
and prayers are with you constanly.
Lots of Love
Grandma & Grandpa Marcy
Posted by: Grandpa & Grandma | May 30, 2007 01:46 AM
This blog is such a wonderful way for YOU to remember everything you do, see and experience. Whenever I'm in the middle of travels or any situation, I always think that I'll never forget. Luckily, I've taken the time to write my thoughts in journals or, lately, on a computer. As I reread, I'm always amazed at the things I experienced that I've forgotten. Lucky for the rest of us, we get to enjoy and learn from your thoughts in writing!! As hard as it may be to keep posting, do it as much as you can. You'll always be glad you did...and so will we!
Posted by: Sandy Bauer | May 30, 2007 08:21 AM
This blog is such a wonderful way for YOU to remember everything you do, see and experience. Whenever I'm in the middle of travels or any situation, I always think that I'll never forget. Luckily, I've taken the time to write my thoughts in journals or, lately, on a computer. As I reread, I'm always amazed at the things I experienced that I've forgotten. Lucky for the rest of us, we get to enjoy and learn from your thoughts in writing!! As hard as it may be to keep posting, do it as much as you can. You'll always be glad you did...and so will we!
Posted by: Sandy Bauer | May 30, 2007 08:21 AM
That's an interesting description of life in Mombasa.Am pleased that a white(mzungu)would develop strong passion to obtain as much details about life in a strange land. Well have a nice time and enjoy your time here in Kenya. May you deliver the best to the organisation you would work with and ensure you too gain as much as possible.All the best!
Posted by: Ali | May 31, 2007 01:36 PM
I wish you enjoy the time in Kenya. I could imagine to be a mzungu in Africa, though I am Chinese ( I guess there is a swahili equivalent too and I wonder the political indications might be different). The Kenya-China Economy Trade Forum just ended in Nairobi last month and there have been almost 4000 Chinese tourists rushing to Kenya since the first quarter this year.
Yes being a minority you may feel unconfortable and even unseure at first, like what I felt when newly arrived at United States. But it will be ok and you can make good use of your uniqueness, which your local colleagues may not be able to reach.
The Tower of Babel is a forever mission for human beings. Americans, Africans and Asians look differently from appearence but all pursue the same happiness --love, health, freedom, family, friendship, delicious food, etc.
What you are doing now, is very meaningful and significant for local communities and cross-cultural understanding. Take care and enjoy the beautiful Kenya!
Posted by: Mandy Bai | June 3, 2007 06:56 PM
By the way if you master a few words in swahili it will give you an edge with people in kenya. just use some of those words in your conversation and you will see the effect.
Posted by: Africa Travel | July 14, 2007 08:35 AM
Developing your communication skills may really take time. Especially if you come to other places and have to learn a new language.
But learning their language and coping with their culture also involves communication skills. If you cannot learn the language fast, you must use your listening skills and body language to be able to still communicate effectively.
Posted by: Communication Skills | September 6, 2007 04:03 PM
I always surf the web looking for blogs on African vacations, Africa safaris and peoples experiences while in Africa. I have certainly enjoyed reading your experience on your internship in mombasa.
Posted by: African safari vacations | March 9, 2008 03:15 PM