If combining your passion for people and plants sounds appealing, you may be a good Master Gardener candidate. A formal education in horticulture isn’t necessary—we will provide the training and resources to help you teach others. There are five steps to becoming a Master Gardener – each step is described in more detail below.
]]> ApplicationTo become a University of Minnesota Master Gardener in your county, you must first apply and be accepted into the program. The application process starts early – we begin sending out applications in August.
Commitment
You agree to volunteer service in exchange for training from the University of Minnesota. You also agree to participate in Master Gardener meetings in your County, where you receive continuing education and learn about new projects and other volunteer opportunities.
Training
Training is held once each year in the metropolitan area in January and February. Master Gardeners attend a 48-hour class at the University of Minnesota known as the "Core Course" or Horticulture 1003 if taken for U of M credit. The course is taught by Extension faculty, and a textbook and mini-reference library are provided to each participant. For more information about the Core Course training, including times, locations, fees, and specific course content, visit the Minnesota Master Gardener page.
Internship
Following completion of Core Course Training, Master Gardener interns are required to do 50 hours of volunteer work and 8 hours of continuing education during their internship year (which ends December 31). We make an effort to ensure that our new interns are placed with other, more seasoned volunteers and we assign a mentor to each new intern. So whether you volunteer at an “Ask a Master Gardener� event, the Diagnostic Clinic or another event, you’ll be with knowledgeable, helpful people who will make sure you’re not on your own. You’ll have fun—and you will learn a lot!
Certification
You’ll receive a certificate and name badge designating you as a Master Gardener once you have completed the Core Course and fulfilled your internship requirements.
Remaining Certified
Once certified, Master Gardeners must volunteer a minimum of 25 hours and receive at least 12 hours of approved continuing education each year in order to maintain their certification.
Advanced Training
After you are certified, you are eligible to attend other training programs and workshops. These courses offer more technical information. Advanced training opportunities include:
Lilacs along with roses are some of our more aromatic flowers. Who doesn't remember their childhood spent at grandmother's when the lilacs were blooming? That aroma was imprinted on my brain and I have associated spring with blooming lilacs ever since. We also use the blooming time as a phenology indicator that our soils have warmed up enough to plant warm season vegetable crops in the garden.
]]> Lilacs have a long history in the United States. Records dating back to 1750's indicate they were grown in botanical gardens in the New England area with the oldest known plants in Governor Wentworth estate in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. Today Rochester, New York claims to be the Lilac capital of the World. Highland Park in Rochester has a two-week long Lilac Festival with over half a million people attending each year. The Highland Park has over 500 varieties of lilacs and over 1,200 lilac's bushes. In addition the park contains over 10,000 pansies, 700 rhododendrons, azaleas and numerous trees species. Go to www.lilacfestival.com, to find out more about this unique festival and gardens.Lilacs originated in Europe and Asia. The common lilac originated in European countries such as the Balkans, France and Turkey, but today we find interest from Russia and Canada in addition to breeding programs in the United States. The French have created lot of fine lilacs over the years and today many are know as "French Hybrids." There are now over 1,000 different varieties of lilacs on the market with lilac, purple, white and pink the most popular colors. Varieties can range from 4 feet to 30 feet in height. It is possible to select varieties of lilac so you will have blooms over a six-week period.
If you are planning to plant some lilacs keep this in mind. Lilacs do not like a windy site. They require a minimum of six hours of sunlight per day in order to have good blooms. They also do not like to be crowded and require about 100 square feet per plant. Soil with good drainage is very important. The plants like water but the roots do not tolerate wet feet.
Lilacs should be fertilized each spring with a fertilizer rich in phosphorus and low in nitrogen, an example would be a 5-10-5. Mulching the roots would also help conserve moisture and keep the roots cool during the hot summer months. Pruning is not necessary each year, but once stems reach 1.5 inches in diameter they should be pruned out. Cut them off at about 12- 15 inches above the soil. Following this practice the lilac will renew it self and continue to bloom each year.
]]>We know spring has arrived by looking at our lawns and seeing bright yellow flowers. The dandelions are putting on their annual show. Kids love the plant, picking it and rubbing it on their friend's cheeks leaving a buttery yellow color. Adults hate them because they are a sign of a neglected yard. Our dander really gets up when the seeds start blowing into our yard.
]]> A little background check on this plant we find that dandelion roots were imported into this country as late as 1957. In fact, they are grown as a crop in New Jersey where they are harvested and used in salads. The Italian restaurants on the east coast may include dandelion greens in your salad. If you want to try some of your own dandelions, pick the very youngest leaves. Older leaves can be quite bitter. Also, as you are picking your dandelion leaves or pulling out the roots notice the different shapes to the leaves. In fact the literature talks about the "57" varieties out there from the very narrow leafed plant to ones that have large broad leaves. Some plant leaves stand up while others hug the ground.The flower of the dandelion is also very interesting. The flower head opens in the morning and closes in the evening. The yellow flower may contain as many as fifty complete flowers each with its own seed. Each of these seeds comes equipped with its own parachute to help disperse it in the environment.
September is the best time of year to kill dandelions. The problem is there is very little advertising taking place at that time of year to remind us of the potential problem coming next spring. Another factor, very few plants bloom at that time of year to catch our attention, so mark Labor Day on your calendar now to remind yourself to look for these weeds. Remember to have some chemicals on hand, as your favorite retailer will have put away the chemicals and will have the shelves full of fall holiday material.
The second best time to control them is in the spring. If you have only a few, digging is probably the easiest especially after a soaking rain. Try to get four to six inches of the root so the plant does not have enough energy to re-grow. If you have more than you can handle by digging, then chemical control is the next option. Fortunately, dandelions are quite sensitive to 2, 4-D products and will twist and curl after a couple of days after being sprayed. Normally you want to apply these products when the temperature is in the 70's and plants are actively growing. Apply the chemicals when the wind is calm and there is no forecast of rain for at least 24 hours and preferably 48 hours. In the spring, chemical drift can be a problem so use extra precaution when spraying to keep it off your desirable plants. Finally, take steps to improve the health of your lawn and many weed problems will disappear on their own.
A recent article peaked my interest in the Yard and Garden News on the University of Minnesota Extension website by Charlie Rohwer and Chris Currey where graduate students in the Department of Horticulture posed this question "How do plants know when it is spring?" The article seemed appropriate to the recent late season snowstorm and the below normal temperatures that followed.
]]> In the fall, we hope our plants go dormant, so they do not continue growing and freeze delicate tissue. In the spring, this process must be reversed once favorable temperatures return. However, why don't the plants start growing in those years when we get a week of above freezing temperatures known as the January thaw? There must be other factors controlling when the plants know it is appropriate to start growing beside just temperature. One controlling feature we know about is called chilling factor that releases the plant from dormancy. In the case of apples, they need 600 plus hours of chilling factor, an accumulation of hours with the temperature between 35 and 45 degrees. A reason you don't find apples growing in warm climates.Another factor contributing to the release of dormancy is daylight, more correctly, the length of night. Here in Minnesota this is critical to many plants because we get wide swings in temperatures, such as the January thaw. A great example was last year when we had 70 degree temperatures the last week of March, followed by a week when it never got above freezing with several nights with single digit temperatures. In my own yard, I lost two apple trees that must have come out of dormancy during the warm week while another apple tree 20 feet away survived. Normally we would expect our temperatures to start moderating by late March along with those warm April showers, but Mother Nature didn't cooperate last year and gave us that extreme cold snap even though the day length was appropriate.
Another interesting phenomenon that intrigues me is what triggers seeds to germinate? Why doesn't a seed start germinating when it falls to the ground? We know that some seeds can lie in the ground for twenty or more years before it germinates. Some seeds, such as the morning glory, have a coat that prevents the absorption of water until the coat is degraded. Walnuts need to have the freezing and thawing crack the outer shell before the embryo can start growing. Some desert plants have a chemical inhibitor that needs to be washed out of the seed by rain before they will germinate. Also infra red light is needed by other seeds to germinate. The seeds brought to the surface by the heaving of the soil due to freezing and thawing action initiates the germination process.
You thought it was April showers that brought May flowers, but the world is a complicated place. That is why I find it so fascinating to be involved in scientific discovery.
]]>April 28, 2008
Now that it has dried up and warmed up people are getting out and assessing winters damage to their plants. One of the first things they are noticing is the browning of foundation evergreens. The severe cold along with the strong winds last winter caused the needles to dry out and in some cases die. People are saying that the plants look orange and the needles are dry.
]]> Fortunately, the Yews, Junipers and Arborvitae grow continuously during the growing season. Therefore they can be pruned back to green growth and new buds will develop. While you are pruning the dead material out, step back and take a look at the plant and its shape. You may need to do a little more pruning to have a good looking plant. However, if the plant is misshapen and can't be corrected then replace it.One of the questions I often get is pruning the columnar arborvitae that is pushing the eve off the house. These plants should be removed as they are over grown and can not be brought back into shape. Cutting the top off will cause you to have a flat top shrub that does not recover its pyramidal shape. Purchase a plant that will not grow so tall or plant the new one out further from the house to prevent this problem in the future.
The other plant that gets out of hand around the foundation is the Mugho Pine. This plant needs constant attention or it grows too big for it space around the house. Because it is a pine it only has a terminal bud at the growing tip. If this is removed that branch stops growing and you end up with a stub. The only time you can prune the Mugho and pine trees is when the new growth emerges, which we call a candle. This can be trimmed up to two -thirds while it is soft and pliable, usually around the end of June. Then a new bud will form at the base of the candle and growth will develop the following year.
The spruce trees only grow in the spring, but they do have lateral buds that will develop if the terminal bud is removed. Therefore you can prune them throughout the season, but make sure you cut back to a side bud or there will be a short stub. Spruce generally need very little pruning. They do go through a gangly stage like teenagers, but will usually grow out of it to form that Christmas tree look.
Some individuals like to trim off the lower branches of spruce and pine trees to be able to mow around them. It is not my preferred look for the tree, besides it keeps the mower away from the trunk of the tree which has caused as much damage to trees as weed whips. Trimming can be done any time of the year, because no branches will grow back in that area once they are removed. Make sure the cut is flush with the trunk so that we get a wound that can heal quickly.
]]>April 14, 2008
When the first few days of nice warm weather appears we rush out into the flower garden to see what has survived. Our first instinct is to start uncovering everything and let it awaken to the new season. As we all know Mother Nature is unpredictable during this time frame and can send us some chilling weather. I recall last year we had several days in late March that reached the 70's, then the following week not a day above freezing. It killed a number of fruit trees that must have been in a vulnerable stage. I lost two apples and a cherry out of my orchard. You may have heard friends talk about how the trees blossomed and then died the next week. Hopefully that will not happen again.
]]> My general advice is to leave our mulches on as long as possible to delay the growing of the plants, especially our strawberries which can get hit with a late frost while they are blooming. This normally kills the blossom, causing us to have to go buy those California strawberries. The best advice I can give is to peek under the mulch to see if the plants are starting to grow. If not I would leave the mulch alone for another week and check it again. Once I see some new growth then I would loosen the mulch but keep it on the plants. When the new growth shows some yellowing in the young leaves, then rake the mulch off the plants to let them get some sunlight. Keep the mulch next to the plants in case a cold freeze is predicted so that you can cover them again till after the cold snap has passed.In the case of roses we want to uncover them so that mold doesn't develop on the leaves and stems. Keeping the mulch around the base of the plant will keep the soil cool slowing any new growth. Once we get into May we can remove the mulch and let the soil warm up the roots of the plant.
Over the next couple of weeks I like to lay down some mulch around my raspberries and asparagus for summer weed control. I wait till the frost is out of the ground and it has dried up in the area and then lay about four -five inches of hay or straw around the bed. This has worked very well in controlling any grass in the rows, usually till late summer.
Now would also be a good time to remove old stalks in the asparagus patch and clean up any weeds that may have grown from last year. Put down some fertilizer and mulch and then wait for those green spikes to appear and enjoy that first cream of asparagus soup of the year.
]]>April 7, 2008
One of the springtime questions I often get is should I fertilize my garden and with what kind of fertilizer mixture. It is a difficult question to answer without information on the soils in the garden or lawn. An additional factor this year will be the cost of the fertilizer. The price of fertilizer has sky rocketed making it an economical decision in addition to nutrient need. Here are some guidelines you might consider this spring.
]]> The first thing one should do is take a soil test. Most home yards are what we called disturbed soils, a mixture of top and subsoil because of the construction of our home. This mixing of soil means that what you are working with in your yard may be different from your neighbors. In the construction of their house, the contractor may have removed the top soil while construction was taking place and then replaced the top soil after the home was built while your contractor may have dug the hole for your basement and piled the dirt nearby and then spread that soil over the top of your new yard. As a result, your yard would react very differently than the neighbors.Therefore, the first step is to learn what you have in your yard. Taking a soil test will help you learn what nutrients are available to plants. My advice would be to do several tests, one in the front yard and another in back. A third area to test would be garden areas where you are growing flowers or vegetables. Normally doing a test every five years should be adequate, unless you see nutrient problems developing in areas.
Soil sampling begins by getting a clean container in which to put your soil samples. Don't use a container that has been washed with soap as it could contain some phosphorous residue altering the test values. If you are sampling an established lawn, your sample needs to be from the top three inches of soil. If it is a garden area then sample to a depth of six inches. Generally, we would recommend taking seven to ten samples from the testing area to get a good representation of the soil in the area. These samples are then thoroughly mixed and a subsample of two cups of soil is sent to the testing lab. There are a number of private testing labs in the state or you can use the University of Minnesota Soil Testing Lab. Sample bags and forms are available from many County Extension Offices.
Results are normally returned in about a week and will have a recommendation for fertilizer needs of the tested area. Then it is a matter of finding a fertilizer mixture that will approximate the recommendation. Remember that state law states that you cannot apply phosphorous containing fertilizer to a lawn without a fertilizer test showing a need for it.
]]>March 31, 2008
It is interesting how many people have commented on how tired they are of winter. I would think the intense political coverage would be tiring but, I believe it has been invigorating to our political process this year. People are openly talking about the options before them and changes they would like to see. This has invigorated community leaders to discuss the future directions they would like their communities to take. This awakening to discuss our future direction relates well to our anticipation of the first walk through our dormant gardens.
]]> I can't wait for all the snow to melt and the yard to dry up so I can inspect the flower beds to see what has survived and to survey what damage the mice and rabbits have created over the winter. Remember the surprises last year? I remember digging up a few plants that the mice had completely girdled. This year we have had good snow cover so I expect the rabbits may have eaten higher up on the branches and with some pruning we will be able to save the plants. It is another question of what the field mice have been doing under the snow.What can we expect in our lawns will be the other concern. Many of the lawns went into winter in a very dry condition. I would expect some of the crowns may have been hurt as a result. Those plants will be slow to green up if they survived. We could see some thin areas, which may need some over seeding. I know I have an area to reseed that had been killed by last summer's drought. I didn't reseed it because we had not received timely rain and when it came it was too late in the season to put the seed down. So I know I have some lawn work ahead of me.
One word of caution is don't hurry to get out on your lawn early in the spring. Each year I remind people that we need to have the lawn firm up and dry out before we do a lot of walking or driving equipment over it. If the ground feels spongy stay off till it feels firm. The reason being is any weight on spongy soils will cause the soil structure to compact creating root problems later in the season. Roots need air to survive and a good soil will contain about 25 percent air spaces. Compacting a wet soil reduce air spaces hindering future root growth.
The only exception to walking on the lawn early is an area where you may have piled snow. The prolonged melting can set up a situation where snow mold may develop. The heavy snow and wet soils can cause pink snow mold to grow and kill out some of the grass. If you have a deep pile of snow start spreading it out so the area dries out fairly quickly. If you can't get out there right away wait till the snow has melted in the area and once the area starts to dry out lightly rake the area to loosen the matted grass. Some times that is enough to save the grass and it recovers so that you don't have to reseed.
]]>March 24, 2008
Some days just can't get any better than this morning. The sun appeared bright and clear lighting up my sun room in full glory. I opened my refrigerator to look for something to make for breakfast and noticed my last two lemons from my lemon tree. A couple of juice oranges laid on the counter ready to be squeezed. A refreshing summer drink is lemonade and orange juice so why not make up some with these fresh fruit. Both fruits are very juicy so it made a nice batch to be enjoyed later in the day. It was time to water my plants before leaving for work. Lo and behold to my surprise on my lemon tree were the first buds of the year starting to burst open. I knew that it was going to happen soon as the tree had sent out new shoot growth the past couple of weeks. The flowers are very sweet smelling, strange as the fruit is sour, and give off an aroma that can be smelled as one walks into the house. Now I know I will have to be around next week to hand pollinate the open flowers and then wait to see how successful I was by the number of lemons on the tree. I think I will kick back my feet this weekend and enjoy that glass of orange/lemon drink. Oh yea the day keeps getting better with the warm rays of sun shinning in my office, enough to want one to find a reason to be out side the rest of the day.
March 10, 2008
Bugs Bugs Bugs
Over the next month or so, depending on when spring arrives, we will be seeing bugs in our home. Already people are bringing insects into the office wondering where they are coming from. I think the most common "bug" we will see this spring is boxelder bugs. They hibernated in large numbers last fall and will come alive when the outdoor temperatures get into the 50's during the day time. They have been over wintering in our homes, having crawled under the siding last fall. I know some individuals who have had them all winter finding a half a dozen a day. I wonder how many they will have once it warms up outside and the bugs start moving out. Fortunately, most will make the right turn and return to the open environment. They are hungry after their long rest and are anxious to find food.
One pest that is showing up and was a major problem in my home last spring was the Indian Meal Moth. This insect has been around our homes for hundred of years. Our grandmothers had large pantries and stored large quantities of flour for the daily bread making. The Indian Meal Moth is a grain insect that eats out the starch in grain. Of course we still have a lot of grain products in our homes, but with today's packaging they are not able to infest our food products easily.
However, many of us still have large quantities of grain in our home or garage. Many dry dog and cat foods have large quantities of grain. Another product is bird seeds stored in our garage. I found that I had a bag of sunflower seeds infested with the meal worms last spring. Instead of throwing it out I kept it and soon my garage was full of flying moths. It didn't take long to get rid of it then.
An easy way to check for the Indian Meal Moth is look in the bag for webbing on top of the grain. Also if you scoop up some of the seed or dog food you will see little cream colored worm wiggling around. After the larva feed for a period of time they will change into the adult moth. The moth is easy to identify because it has a light tan band across its dark brown wings.
In the case of dog food and bird seed the best is to toss it out and buy some new food or seed. Of course they still can be found in some open flour or cereal boxes inside the home. Most of us will toss the infected products, but you can put the cereal boxes in the freezer for a week and then sift them out. As far as the boxelder bugs and Asian Lady Beetle, vacuuming them up is the best procedure. I don't recommend any spraying in our closed up houses at this time of the year.
]]>“Let’s Get Growing� Workshop
One of the most popular Master Gardener Activities each Spring is the “Let’s Get Growing� gardening workshop. Popular guest speakers are invited to our area to share their expertise along with local master gardeners.
In addition to the variety of classes offered each year there are always displays by area garden centers and suppliers. Some have items for sale like plant labels or specialty tools like some of the more unique hand trowels.
]]> Master Gardeners’ Garden TourEvery year the tour is different with a variety of garden types on display for visitors to browse and pick up ideas they can use at home. In addition, master gardeners are available at each location to answer visitor questions.
Terrace Learning Garden
Located at the Douglas County Service Center, circling the parking area in front of the library, is the Terrace Learning Garden. This is a display garden where people in the community can see plantings that work well in the county area. Plants are labeled to make it easier for people to identify plants they may be interested in.
Local residents and community organizations are welcome to participate in this project and regularly do show up to help with the work. Check out our calendar for work schedules. That’s a good time to stop by and ask questions, as well.
Gardening Classes
Community education classes are popular in our area and every time a new listing of classes comes out there are numerous offerings by Douglas County Master Gardeners. Because each master gardener has his/her own areas of special interest, a wide variety of subjects are represented. You will find classes on such topics as vegetable gardening, annuals, perennials, container gardening, butterfly gardening and lawn care (and the possibilities go on).
In addition, classes are also offered outside the community education program. Sometimes these are sponsored by local groups like one of the garden clubs. If you belong to a group that would like to sponsor a class related to your program, there is a good chance that a master gardener has an interest in your topic and could help out.
Master Gardeners’ Plant Sale
Without a doubt one of the most exciting events on the Master Gardener schedule is the annual plant sale. Be on time if you expect to buy anything! Hundreds of plants are sold each year and usually most of them go out the door in the first thirty minutes.
Most of these plants come from the master gardeners’ own gardens, but in recent years some others have donated plants (larger home gardeners who sometimes say, “if you come thin them out, you can have the plants!� But in every case this is a good way for many people to pick up a lot of great plants for a small price.
Ask a Master Gardener
Many people who have horticultural questions call into the Douglas County Extension office. One important project for Master Gardeners is answering those calls.
Many Master Gardeners participate in this program. Reference materials are available for more challenging questions and research can include university resources when necessary.
Kids/Junior Master Gardeners
Master Gardeners are interested in teaching children and youth as well as adults. A number of activities have been offered in Douglas County for this age group.
Classes are designed to involve students in real garden activities. Plantings have been made at the fairgrounds. Trees have been planted and bluebird houses have been located in parks. Seed necklaces and pocket gardens have been made at the library.
Heritage Project
An interesting Master Gardener project seen by many visitors to the Alexandria area, as well as residents, is the Heritage garden. This special garden is located at the Runestone Museum which distributes brochures explaining the garden.
The Heritage Garden was first planted by four Master Gardener interns. It is located next to the fence at the museum so entrance to the museum is not required for viewing.
County Fair Booth
Every year at the Douglas County Fair Master Gardeners sponsor a booth with an educational horticulture theme. Actual plants are commonly displayed (even weeds) with id information and recommended cultural practices.
Master Gardeners are often present to answer questions. Always there is information available about the Master Gardener program and instructions for applying to participate for those with an interest.
Habitat for Humanity Landscaping
When Habitat helps a new family into their first home, Master Gardeners offer their assistance in planning for appropriate landscaping. Plants are recommended that will be easier for new gardeners to grow and maintain.
As with all Master Gardener projects, the focus is on education. Because the goal is to help the new home owners learn how to take care of their yard just as they want to take care of their home, time is given to providing personal instruction to family members about their landscape plants.
Rain Garden
Diverting rain water runoff is an important conservation concern that is addressed by Douglas County Master Gardeners through their Rain Garden projects. This is one of the newer programs in the county.
Master Gardeners work with several local organizations to help plan and develop rain gardens on their lands. They have also joined with the Soil and Water District to build a demonstration rain garden and a rain garden display at the Douglas County fair.
Scholarship Fund
Each year the Master Gardeners of Douglas County provide a scholarship to a student graduating from a county high school. This is done in cooperation with the Dollars for Scholars program in which all graduating students compete.
In this program organizations offering a scholarship of $500.00 or more can designate the type of scholarship to be offered. The Master Gardener scholarship meets this criteria and offers the scholarship to a student interested in either a two or four year education in horticulture.
Master Garden Bus Tours
In addition to the local garden tour sponsored by Master Gardeners, trips are planned to gardens outside the area as well. These trips are also open to the public.
Minnesota has many excellent gardens to visit. One of the most important, and a common destination, is the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum in Chaska where massive demonstration gardens display many of the best plants for Minnesota landscapes.
(Previously known as the Tri-State MG Conference)
The conference will kick off on Wednesday evening, with a get together meal and social/networking event for those who have come in advance for the Thursday tours. This will also be the start of our ongoing registration/check-in for the conference.
Thursday tours provide your choice of one of six fantastic motor coach tours of private gardens in the area. This will include lunch in the comfort of an air-conditioned local restaurant and the always popular stop at a great garden center. This provides the start of a perfect introduction to “Gardening Through The Continuum Of Life�.
The culmination of Thursday’s program will be an informal dinner/socialization event around the pool at the end of the tours.
Friday after breakfast, the educational part of the conference begins, with a presentation by Gene Rothert, enabling garden author, educator and manager of Chicago Botanical Gardens’ Buehler Enabling Garden & Horticulture Therapy Services. That will be followed by four one hour breakout educational sessions, with eight different topics in each one hour block. Ongoing, during the day and evening, will be a vendor’s area, MG’s displays and a silent auction.
Friday evening will be the main keynote speaker and dinner with Michael Weishan of the PBS Victory Garden, followed by a social/ hospitality reception.
Saturday morning, features the entertaining Melinda Myers, author and host of Public Television’s Great Lakes Gardener. After Melinda’s presentation, it is ‘Hand’s On Day’, with many different opportunities to try something new. It is then time for the final sendoff, with Raffle winner announcements, Search for Excellence award, future convention announcements, and farewells.
For more information: http://sewmg.encumpus.com/
]]>June 3: Master Gardener Meeting
July 1: Master Gardener Meeting
August 5: Master Gardener Picnic
September 2: Master Gardener Meeting
October 7: Master Gardener Meeting
November 11: Master Gardener Meeting
December 7: Master Gardener Christmas Party
The community is invited to participate in the Terrace Learning Garden work sessions (in case of inclement weather they will be rescheduled for the following day). Bring your questions or just work along side Master Gardeners and learn as you go.
]]> May 27: Terrace Learning Garden Planting 9:00 a.m.