The Master Gardener program is an educational program designed to train volunteers to help others in their communities with horticulture. The 2012 Master Gardener Core Course will be held at the University of MN -- St. Paul Campus and online. A total of 48 hours of education, this class is taught by University of Minnesota extension educators and faculty. Some of the topics included in the core course will be: entomology, herbaceous plants, trees and shrubs, indoor plants, integrated pest management, lawn care, fruits and vegetables.

Upon completion of the Master Gardener program, each Master Gardener is required to complete an internship of 50 hours of volunteer time the first year, and 25 hours of volunteer time in following years. These volunteer hours can be achieved in a variety of ways including presentations and community service projects.

For more information, please contact, U of MN Extension Goodhue County, 651-385-3100 or 1-800-385-3101.

Buckthorn is designated as a restricted, noxious weed in Minnesota. So why is it so pervasive on my property and the property of so many landowners? Originally buckthorn was imported as an ornamental. Most Minnesota nurseries have voluntarily stopped selling this tree because of its ability to escape cultivation, which is the issue. When uncontrolled, buckthorn can form dense thickets in forests, yards, parks, and roadsides. It will crowd out native plants and displace the native shrubs and small trees in the mid-layer of the forest where many species of birds normally nest. It is important for property owners to recognize and remove buckthorn in order to protect their local environment.

How do you recognize buckthorn? There are two varieties - common or European and glossy or alder buckthorn. I have a lot of common buckthorn on my property and its characteristics are: shrub habit, with several stems possibly originating from one spot, but it can reach 20-25 feet in height. If not controlled it can form dense thickets, which is why it was popular as a hedge plant when first introduced. The leaves are dark green, dull to glossy, and oval-shaped with finely toothed edges and 3-5 pair curved leaf veins. Leaves stay dark green and on the tree late into autumn. Buds are opposite and there is a sharp thorn at tip of the twig, hence the name. The round, berry-like fruit is one-quarter inch in diameter, arranged in large clusters and is green/black in color.
Each fruit has 3-4 seeds and the berries are persistent. I initially attack the female trees with berries to reduce the opportunity for spreading as efficiently as possible. Birds do not seem to be particularly fond of the fruits, but will eat the berries in late fall and winter when food sources are scarce. The fruit contains a laxative so the seeds pass through quickly and therefore not only have little nutritive value, but also are efficiently dispersed. Buckthorn seeds can remain viable for up to 5 years.

Removal

Once you have identified buckthorn, there are several ways to remove it. Burning is one method, but not usually practical. For seedlings less than about three feet tall, hand pulling is an option, if tedious. A mattock might be a good tool to consider. For larger trees, up to about two inches in diameter, a Weed Wrench works well. I have a medium sized one. It works like a lever - the trunk can be gripped between two jaws and pulling on a long lever of the tool tightens the grip and provides a mechanical advantage to pull the tree out by the roots (see References to borrow one). For mature trees, cutting is the best approach, but the stump must be treated with an herbicide or it will resprout vigorously. Stumps should be treated immediately after cutting (within 2 hours) with an herbicide containing Triclopyr (such as Ortho Brush-B-Gon or Garlon 3A or 4) or Glyphosate (Roundup) to prevent re-sprouting. Any herbicide application must be performed in strict compliance with the manufacturer's directions on the label. The best time to cut and chemically treat the stumps is in late summer and throughout the fall, when the sap is not actively flowing, but treatment can be done any time of the year.

Basal bark treatment is a method that applies chemical on the bark of a standing tree/shrub. The chemical and its binding agent are absorbed through the bark into the plant, where it kills the living cambium. For stems less than 5 cm diameter, chemical is applied to one side; for larger stems, the chemical is applied all the way around in a 30 cm (1 ft) high strip. Basal bark application can be carried out in all seasons. A paint brush or ultra-low volume sprayer can be used to apply the chemical to the bark.
Buckthorn treated in this fashion can be left standing or cut at a later date. Higher concentrations of chemical may be needed for large (tree sized) buckthorns.

Frilling involves killing a standing tree by applying herbicide to a gash cut in the bark. The tree is gashed with an axe or chain saw and the herbicide is applied directly in the gash, killing the tree immediately. While this method requires a little more time than basal bark treatment, it is generally more effective as the chemical is applied directly to the growing parts of the standing trunk. This technique may be the most effective method to kill large buckthorn trees.

Ongoing Treatment
Once begun, control methods may be needed for many years. Buckthorn seeds in the soil can remain viable for three to five years. It is important to control seedlings that emerge after initial control efforts. With no follow up control, buckthorn will come back.

Replacement

Replanting of desirable tree, shrub and herbaceous species after buckthorns have been removed would be a good idea. The goals of plantings may include privacy, protection, landscape accents or borders. Some suggested plantings would include lilac bushes, highbush cranberry, nannyberry, American hazelnut, juneberry or pagoda dogwood for privacy, barberry, shrub roses, juniper, or arborvitae for hedging or protection, butterfly bushes, trumpet vines and honeysuckle to attract hummingbirds and butterflies during the spring and summer months. Winterberries develop bright red fruits in late fall that are eaten by a variety of birds throughout the winter (MNLA 1998). Pin and chokecherries are good native substitutes whose fruits can also be eaten by humans. A reputable landscape or garden center can also provide specific recommendations.

References
http://www.extension.umn.edu/gardeninfo/weedid/woody/commonbuckthorn.html
http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/woody/buckthorn/control.html
http://www.thamesriver.on.ca/Invasive_species/Images/Buckthorn_factsheet_lowres.pdf
http://www1.extension.umn.edu/gardeninfo/components/info_landscaping.html
http://blog.lib.umn.edu/mgweb/goodhue/popular_topics/be_a_buckthorn_buster_video.html#more

The Goodhue County Master Gardeners have purchased a Weed Wrench that you can borrow free with a minimal security deposit that will be refunded when the Weed Wrench is returned. You can sign up to borrow the Weed Wrench or get a free fact sheet on buckthorn at the U of MN Extension office located at the Government Center, Room 201, 509 West 5th St, Red Wing, MN. Please call Robin at 651-385-3100 for more information on availability.

Last season Japanese Beetles invaded Minnesota in a big way and unfortunately now that they have arrived, they are here to stay. Though they are fairly new to Minnesota, the first transplanted Japanese beetle was found in a New Jersey nursery in 1916. As the name implies they are native to Japan where they have several natural enemies that keep their population in check. Here in the U.S., however, Japanese beetles continue to spread to new areas every year and have become a highly destructive plant pest.

In mid to late-June female beetles emerge and begin feeding, mating and burrowing into the ground where they lay their eggs. The eggs hatch into grubs in about two weeks. The grubs grow quickly feeding on the roots of turf grass and are almost full-grown in August. As fall approaches and temperatures cool below 50⁰F the grubs dig deeper into the soil to overwinter. When spring arrives and the soil warms again they begin to move upward and resume eating. In mid-June the grubs pupate and the adult Japanese beetles emerge one to three weeks later.

Biological and Non-Toxic Controls

Adult Japanese beetles feed on over 300 different plants including trees, shrubs, annuals and perennials. Once Japanese beetles become established they are very difficult to eradicate so vigilance and using a variety of different control methods is crucial to their management.

Here are six non-chemical control methods:

1. Hand-picking: When the females arrive in June it is imperative to begin immediately hand-picking when they first start eating your plants. These early beetles are scouts so it is important to destroy them before they draw other adult beetles to your plants. Adult Japanese beetles can fly as far as a mile and a half to a new host and are attracted by leaves and flowers that have already been eaten on by other beetles so it is also advisable to remove any damaged foliage. Hand-pick the beetles in the early morning or late evening when they are sluggish and will easily drop off shaken foliage into a peanut butter jar or coffee can filled with soapy water.
2. Tolerate some tunnels: Moles may dig up your lawn and garden, but on the positive side they also eat Japanese beetle grubs.
3. Nematodes: Using parasitic nematodes, especially the strain Heterorhabditis bacteriophora, has been shown to have some effect controlling the grubs.
4. Milky Spore Disease: MSD is a bacterial infection fatal to Japanese beetle grubs; however the jury is still out as to its efficacy.
5. Protective covering: Use Reemay or other spun-bonded material to protect plants that are especially susceptible to beetle damage.
6. Plant non-attractive plants: Japanese beetles favor roses, hibiscus, grapes, hollyhocks and other mallows so choose plants they do not like such as poppies, hosta and coreopsis. There is a long list of their likes and dislikes in the USDA booklet "Managing the Japanese Beetle: A Homeowner's Handbook" that can be found online at www.aphis.usda.gov/lpa/pubs/pub_phjbeetle04.pdf.
7. Attract beneficial insects: Some tiny parasitic wasps (not the large wasps that sting!) lay their eggs in white grubs and when they hatch their young devour the grubs from the inside out. To attract these beneficial wasps plant nectar-rich herbs and other flowers that have small shallow-faced flowers and of course, do not use insecticides in your yard and gardens.
8. Pheromone traps: Many people swear by the traps and they do attract hundreds if not thousands of beetles, which may be the problem. Just like having the only "bug zapper" in the neighborhood and consequently all the mosquitoes, you will attract not only most of the Japanese beetles in your neighborhood, but pretty much all of them for miles around. If you do decide to hang a trap make sure it is at least fifty feet away from your garden or other desirable plants and only put it out for a few days every couple weeks.

There are several chemical insecticide sprays on the market that are effective against Japanese beetles, but most are toxic and harmful to birds, butterflies and other backyard wildlife. For more information on using chemical controls for Japanese beetle adults and grubs, please see the UMN Extension fact sheet at www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg7664.html.

Bring excitement to your shade gardens with flamboyant splashes of color by planting bulblike tubers of "Fancy Leaf" Caladiums among your Hosta and Fern plants. Gorgeous hues of red, pink, and white heart shaped leaves move gracefully in the breeze bringing your shade garden to life.

"Lance Leaf" Caladiums, derived from Caladium picturantum, are smaller and more compact. Their pretty, ruffle-edge foliage seems tailor-made for window boxes and patio panters.

You can purchase started plants from garden centers, but what fun is that. Gardeners like to grow plants from seeds, or bulbs and enjoy the excitement of experiencing emergence of the new plants. This is the true joy of gardening. You can purchase the Caladium tubers at local garden centers and from mail- order suppliers. Many vendors are available on the web, just search for Caladium bulbs as most people refer to the tubers as bulbs.

Caladium tubers are frost sensitive. Plant outdoors after the last frost date when nighttime temperatures are 65 degrees F and soil is warm to the touch. Caladiums tolerate most soils, but perform best in soil that is richly organic. Spade in peat moss or compost at planting time if you have sandy or heavy clay soils.

Place tubers bud side up and plant in furrows or individual holes 6 -12 inches apart. Plant the tubers 2-3 inches deep depending on the size of you tubers, and tamp the soil firmly around each tuber to eliminate air pockets. Water the new planted tubers immediately, and thereafter only water if the soil becomes dry until leaves emerge. Caladium leaves will begin to emerge in 3 to 6 weeks after planting.

I like to grow Caladiums in pots to add additional structure to the garden and for plants of interest on the patio. When your caladiums are up and growing, they like moist surroundings and they will thank you for a shower on hot summer days. Use mulch to keep you soil moist. Keep your caladiums growing by applying fertilizer around your plants. A good rule of thumb is 2 pounds of 10-10-5 per 100 square feet of planting bed. Reapply fertilizer monthly.

Caladiums are frost tender, and if you are interested in saving your tubers from year to year, most gardeners, dig them in the fall. Stop watering as temperatures begin to cool. When foliage begins to yellow and daytime temperatures drop and remain below 60 degrees F, the time is right to dig up caladium tubers. Air dry tubers 7 to 10 days on a flat sunny surface. Allow leaves to fall off by themselves as the leaves are supplying the tubers with needed nutrients for storage. Store Caladium tubers in a well-ventilated spot where temperatures remain ideally between 65 and 75 degrees F. Do not refrigerate the tubers.

White-Tailed Deer do not like Caladiums!!! Deer prefer to eat scarecrow shirts rather than Caladiums.

"Fancy Leaf" Caladium cultivars:
Red: Festivia, Poecile, John Peed, Postman Joyner, and Red Flash
White: Aaron, Candidum, June Bride, White Queen, and White Christmas
Pink: Carolyn Whorton, Fannie Munson, Haldeman, Pink Beauty, and Rose Bud
"Lance Leaf" Caladium Cultivars:
Florida Sweetheart, Miss Muffet, Pink Symphony, Rosalie, and White wing

Credits:
Happiness Farms, Inc.
UMN Extension

View our PSA video on Plant a Row for the Hungry.

Why should you find and remove all buckthorn from your yard and gardens?

Let's start with why buckthorn is so destructive. Buckthorn produces berries with zillions of seeds that are eaten and then dispersed by the birds. The seeds germinate easily and then become zillions of baby buckthorns that soon grow into thickets of buckthorn that choke out all the existing native shrubs and other vegetation including the chokeberries, serviceberries and high-bush cranberries (Viburnums) that feed the birds and other fauna.

It isn't enough that buckthorn grows so thickly that it crowds out the native shrub understory, to add insult to injury the roots and leaves are even allopathic. That means that like black walnuts most plants cannot survive growing nearby. So not only does it shade and crowd out all the native shrubs it also poisons any flora trying to grow underneath. Without the woodland plants to hold it, the soil erodes washing native plant seeds into nearby streams and ravines and making any future re-growth impossible.

If you still aren't convinced that buckthorn is a scourge, I will add one more reason to hate it for those of you that farm. Buckthorn is a host for the crown rust fungus (Puccinia coronata), which harms oats and it is also a host for Asian soybean aphids that damage soybeans and spread many other horticultural viruses.

Buckthorn is fairly easy to identify especially later in the fall when it keeps its green foliage long after most shrubs and trees have lost their leaves. The leaves are glossy, small and pointed and the fruits are in clusters of ¼ inch black berries. The bark resembles that of native cherries or plums, but if you scrape off a small section of the outer bark you will find that buckthorns have a distinctive bright orange heartwood underneath. You can find good photos of the leaves and bark on the MN DNR website at www.dnr.state.mn.us.

I won't lie to you--eradicating buckthorn isn't easy. If you don't correctly remove the plant you can end up with ten times as many buckthorns that come up from the roots and trunk. If you have mature buckthorn on your property that have a large trunk the best way to kill the tree is to cut it down to six inches or less from the ground and then immediately brush or spray an herbicide containing glyphosate onto the stump. Don't wait even a few minutes to paint the stump (especially in spring) because once the sap starts to ooze it will form a barrier rendering the herbicide less effective.

Choose a product that contains at least 25% glyphosate and preferably an even greater percentage. The ingredients label will give you the exact percentage if you read it carefully. There are other chemicals that will also kill buckthorn, but I don't recommend them because they can be very toxic and glyphosate becomes neutral when it hits the soil. I have had personal experience as to what a more toxic product can do when a friend used another herbicide for buckthorn growing in my garden and to this day nothing grows in the area where it was sprayed.

For smaller buckthorn there is a handy tool called the Weed Wrench that clamps onto the stem and easily levers the plant right out of the ground roots and all. The Goodhue County Master Gardeners have purchased a Weed Wrench that you can borrow free with a minimal security deposit that will be refunded when the Weed Wrench is returned. You can sign up to borrow the Weed Wrench or get a free fact sheet on buckthorn at the U of MN Extension office located at the Government Center, Room 201, 509 West 5th St, Red Wing, MN. Please call Robin at 651-385-3100 for more information on availability. View our video on buckthorn.

Goodhue Co. Master Gardeners planting a rain garden by a parking lot.

A Goodhue Co. Master Gardener giving a presentation on rain gardens.

Our Master Gardeners also speak to many community groups on a variety of subjects including rain gardens, gardening for fall color, fragrance gardening, composting, attracting hummingbirds and the America in Bloom contest. The Goodhue Co. Master Gardeners were instrumental in helping Red Wing win their population category in the America in Bloom contest in 2007 and have been mentoring two other Minnesota communities that will be entering the contest in the future.

A Goodhue Co. Master Gardener with a local artist at the RWAA garden tour.

Each year the Red Wing Arts Association holds a tour of local gardens to raise funds for their group and there are Master Gardeners at each tour stop to answer gardening questions from the public. Master Gardeners also have booths and answer gardening questions at the Red Wing and Wanamingo Farmer's Markets, the Earth Day Celebration, local garden centers and a plant sale to benefit the garden club.

In 2008, we helped start the Plant a Row for the Hungry program and the new Red Wing Community Garden.

And that is just a few of the volunteer activities that the Master Gardeners do in Goodhue County!

Click Here to download a PDF of the Value of Trees publication.