However, other pests cause similar damage so it’s important to study the suspect’s modus operandi:
1. Small round holes in the ground, surface or slightly subsurface runways, teeth marks on vegetables or berries (or produce disappearing), chocolate brown scuttling critters, no raised turf—vole
]]> 2. Sizeable rounded crescent or horseshoe-shaped mounds (often several) with plugged entrance holes, missing plants or roots, no raised turf—pocket gopher.3. Holes (no mounds) in turf or under and along walls, foundations and woodpiles, missing plants and berries, no raised turf—striped gopher or chipmunk.
4. Conical mounds (sometimes absent), meandering ridges of raised turf or soil (soft when stepped upon) plants undermined or pushed from the ground but not eaten, a few small holes—mole.
Many ways have been devised to reduce or eliminate mole damage but researched-based studies show that some work better than others and a few are entirely ineffective.
Repellents: Castor oil based repellents are readily available. Reports of their effectiveness are mixed. Here are links to conflicting opinions:
http://ohioline.osu.edu/w-fact/0011.html
http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/epublic/pages/publicationD.jsp?publicationId=92
Most experts agree that many commonly touted repellents are ineffective including chewing gum, ultrasonic devices, bleach, mothballs and human hair.
Poison baits: “Poison peanuts? sold to control moles and gophers are not effective according to University Extension and other wildlife specialists because moles (insectivores) are unlikely to recognize them as food. Recently introduced poison products formulated to resemble mole food (earthworms) may be more effective. Read about them at http://agebb.missouri.edu/hort/meg/archives/v11n6/meg2.htm
Grub control: The theory is that moles will vacate yards and gardens devoid of soil insects, especially grubs. However, studies indicate that moles eat more earthworms than grubs and because maintaining insect free soil is a challenge, results may be mixed at best.
Smoke bombs and fumigants: Mole tunnels are complex systems so multiple simultaneous and repeated bombing may be needed to get results.
Trapping: Most experts agree that trapping is the best way to control (not eliminate) moles. Unfortunately, many who try it give up because they haven’t gotten results. Trapping success requires practice and persistence. Harpoon traps are readily available and easier to set than others on the market. Here are tips to improve trapping skills: http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/W703moletrapping.html
-Bob Bystrom, Master Gardener
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Many of us think we know how to take care of our trees just by observing how our cities, shopping malls, neighbors, etc. take care of theirs. We assume that a city or large commercial enterprise would know the proper methods of pruning, mulching, watering, and other plant maintenance. But think about it, how many times have you noticed an irrigation system spewing forth water while it is raining? One of the most noticeable tree care mistakes seen in our area is mounding mulch up around the tree trunk.]]>
Mulching is very important because it conserves soil moisture, suppresses weeds and grass, moderates soil temperatures, and reduces compaction. If there are no weeds and grass near the trunk of the tree there is no need to mow or weed whip near the tree trunk, thus reducing the possibility of damaging the trunk. In order to protect the trunk, it is best to have a nice wide mulched area, not a small area with mulch piled up around the trunk. If the tree looks like there is a mulch volcano around it it may develop problems because water soaked bark is susceptible to bacteria, it creates a place for insects and disease to start attacking the tree and it provides a hideout for rodents. Instead, the look you want is that of a doughnut where the mulch is pulled a couple of inches away from the tree trunk and extends out several feet from the trunk.
Luckily I planted daffodils and not tulips! Deer love sweet tender tulips in the spring but do not touch my daffodils. I learned the hard way, so now the tulips are in the fenced-in area of the yard and the daffodils and alliums are outside the fence. ]]>
If you don’t want to fence your yard or gardens, continually be spraying stinky purchased or homemade repellents, or have a yard full of smelly soap or shiny objects hanging from trees, then landscape your yard with plants rated “rarely damaged? or “seldom severely damaged? by deer browsing. A list of various types of plants can be found on the Rutgers University Extension website which is searchable by plant type, ratings, or specific plant name.
Characteristics