Notes from the Field 2007

By Katie Gruner
Writing from Tanzania (View map)

I first came to Tanzania in the spring of 2003 to study at the University of Dar es Salaam for one semester. Memories from my first trip came alive again as I stepped off the plane in Dar a couple days ago. I took a deep breath... ah, the smell of Tanzania. That diesel, trash-burning, dusty, fire-cooking, sweaty smell. Call me crazy but I've missed it!

Many people ask me... so, have things changed? My response is a hesitant "sort of". There are still the same potholes, terrible roads, dalladallas (minibuses that serve as public transportation) and tourist souvenirs. You still need to know Swahili and you can still find all the rice, beans and fried chicken your heart desires! For the most part, daily life seems similar and familiar to me. There are two major things that have changed. First, there is a mall. Yes, an air conditioned mall with a western movie theater, over-priced clothing stores, electronics store, cafes, dry cleaners and a ShopRite (containing overstock items, similar to a Kmart). There are more ATMs in the mall than I saw during my 5 months here in 2003. Second, billboards and NGOs are talking more about HIV/AIDS. There are advertisements on bottled water and you can even purchase condom purses, pocket mirrors, bowties, necklaces and picture frames. Whether the abundance of these advertisements reflects daily conversations among friends, safer sexual behaviors, or even culturally competent messages is yet to be discovered; however, this is a good start considering I never saw HIV/AIDS mentioned or seen during my first visit.

For my first two weeks here I am visiting old friends and "family" in Dar and traveling before starting my summer internship in Karatu (in northern Tanzania near the Ngorongoro Crater). I will be working with Minnesota International Health Volunteers on maternal and child health projects. I will keep you posted on new happenings and discoveries here in East Africa!