Notes from Zambia

In just two days we had adventures coming out of our ears. The most striking thing about the city was the contrasting modernity with national park also within the city limits. While there we went to an Elephant Orphanage where the 'park rangers' rescue baby elephants from certain death by abondonment. Their mothers were killed by poachers, and without care these infants could not survive. The elephants are cared for just as a human infant would. We were able to visit these elephants during their feeding time. The program rehabilitates these elephants, fosters bonds with other rescured baby elephants, and then reintroduce them to wild herds where they choose their own herd to live with. We also gave giraffes kisses and petted a cheetah. During a dance perfomance of traditional dances from the various tribes of Kenya, I was invited--pulled up on stage to partake. needless to say, it was quite funny-no I definately didn't look like I belonged. And unfortunately for me, Debby caught it on our video tape-I'm sure it will be posted at some time.
Since we arrived in Zambia, we've done a lot of walking and talking. Zambians are known for their friendliness and pretty much every passing person greets you,however its hard to miss the shouts of 'Mozungu' from the children (sometimes grown children). Mozungu means white person--and when we go to the city center, villages, or compouds (neighborhoods), we really do stick out.
A few bits of the culture here:
The tradition in Africa, like in many parts of the world, the custom is to eat your food with your hands. Every meal here is pretty much served with Mealy Meal, a corn meal that you roll into a solid little ball and then scoop up the vegetables, beans, or meat. I've been trying to eat like this even at home when we had mealy meal.
I've also been amazed at the sense of community here. The women who carry their babies on their back use a piece of fabric that they tie into a sling with a knot at their chest. I asked Debby how they got their babies on their backs if there wasn't a second person around to help. And while they are masters at this trick of baby slinging, at the churches and other places I noticed their women friends also are helping out.
As for our project, we've done a lot of preliminary work to get started but today was the first day we actually conducted interviews with women, children, and caregivers at the clinic of Tiny Tim and Friends. Yesterday I was excited to visit the Women's Group out in one of the compounds. The location where they meet in a church, which consists of four bare cement block walls, a corregated tin roof, and a dirt floor. However, this meager building is the setting for the empowerment, emotional, and social support of women who are being proactive in their situation. The group consists of HIV+ women who come together twice a week to socialize and make crafts for sale. The goods they create are beaded bracellets, bags woven from grocery bags, and painted postcards. The profit from these goods goes back to the group as a supplemental income. The group does so much more for them than just provide an income: they are able to share in their experiences, give purpose to their days, and break the stigma of the disease.
Today in between visiting a site for Debby's project and clinic hours, a friend/project collaborator took us to a hospice nearby. Our Ladies Hospice is a place where many people come for their anti HIV drugs (ARVs) and for short term in patient care. The head nurse Matron Shamoya happened to have done a workshop at the MayoClinic in MN-so we had an instant 'in.' After explaining her experience and work at the hospice we toured the facilities. According to Debby, this hospice was beautifully kept and nice compared to other hospices. As we discussed while there, Hospice often means 'end of life care.' However its a little discordant with the concept that HIV is no longer a death sentence. I think though that when many of these places began, HIV was fatal and a hospice was a fitting term. Rather than a dormitory style setting, the patients were in small houses with several bedrooms that each had two beds. We chatted with a few patients and it seemed that they were glad to have visitors. It was extremely difficult for me--as someone who is a bit squimish and has always had difficulty in 'sick care' settings-to sit in a room with a man who was obviously very very ill. As my work on this project mainly deals with a less grim aspect of HIV/AIDS-women who are proactive in their treatment, and are seeking care for the specific reason of preventing HIV to be transmitted tot their child, I was reminded of what this disease really can do if not treated promptly. I commend all of those who are working directly and indirectly to impact the spread of this disease, and improve the quality of life for those with a positive status.
Tomorrow we will go to a soccer game--The number two and three ranked teams inZambia will duke it out. I think I'll be safe in cheering for Zambia-no shoes will be thrown my direction. Thursday we will go to Parliament to meet and greet afew members, as a man we met is the son of a former UN Ambassador and current 'lobbyist' or sorts for Parliament. This weekend we go to Livingstone where Victoria Falls is located. So much to do, and so little time! Pictures of our adventures will be posted soon, but now its time for a Zambian Juicy Lucy (our own version of the Minneapolis Matt's Bar famous burger).