Notes from Zambia

Jan 8-Jan 13

The last week has just flown by with final staff interviews, a trip to Livingstone and Botswana, and our goodbyes. We spent much of our last days doing things that we enjoy: going to Coffee Talk Café, spending time with friends, and traveling. It has been a wonderful 5.5 weeks and I am sad to leave. Its so hard to say goodbye when you have had such an amazing experience. Its hard to put into words. When I arrive home, people will be asking, “How was it?!� and “Tell me about your experience!� But I struggle with the answer. Its too hard to explain the impact that this country has on me! I am happy that Stephanie was here so I have a witness of its greatness. Plus, she makes a great traveling partner. Always up for an adventure! And an adventure we had!!!

We booked a camping trip from JollyBoys (in Livingstone) to Botswana. We left Lusaka at 1930hrs and had an 8 hour bus ride. With the hot weather, packed bus, and gazillion potholes in the road, we barely slept and arrived at 3am on Friday morning. Our bus to Botswana was coming at 6:45am for us. But despite the lack of sleep, we were up on time and ready to experience the wild of Botswana. Our trip included a ferry ride over the Chobezi River into Botswana, a riverboat ride, two safaris, and camping in the Chobe National Park.

Picture! Heading to Botswana via minibus!

We saw many “rocks� (or hippos!), a leopard (yes!), herds of giraffes and buffalo, and hundreds of colorful birds. The hippos were bathing/soaking in the water while the giraffes were eating. During one of our morning game drives, we saw hundreds of buffalo come out of the bush. Each one ran into this swamp like water hole to drink and bathe. Baboons and birds were near. During the night I heard a lion’s roar and during the drive the next day, we tracked a lion’s prints and found it had been chasing a buffalo! Although we did not see the aftermath of this chase, I was happy to know an event like this happened so close to our campsite. We were experiencing National Geographic and Animal Discovery. On our boat ride, we crossed into Namibian waters. Therefore, on this African trip, Steph and I have ventured into Kenya, Zambia, Zimbabwe (on the border bridge where I did bunji and the water at Lake Kariba), Botswana, and Nimibia. Zambia is still my favorite place. We returned to Jollyboys on Saturday morning and the rest of our trip consisted of relaxing by the pool, playing table tennis, and heading to a local club.

Wild life

Giraffe getting a drink of water (and showing off or saying hello!)

Botswana landscape

hippos

giraffes in late afternoon

Buffalo herd

I have talked about Amanda’s project in Wisconsin. On Monday (Jan 12) I went to Revarand Zimba’s Transit Home where students were having there first day of class. I introduced the project to the kids (age ranged from 2-10), handed out paper, pencils and crayons and they went to town! Unfortunately many did not write, so letters were not written, but boy could they draw and color! I am sure that Amanda’s class in Green Lake will enjoy them very much! When they were finished we handed out the letters and pictures to the students. Translation was done and smiles filled the room.

Students working on their pictures

Students enjoying the pictures and letters from Ms. Guay's class!

The class, Rev Zimba, and I waving to Amanda and the students at Green Lake

Also, I received word from Amanda that her class raised $150 to go towards mosquito nets for children in Africa! Again, if you want to learn more about this project, head to Amanda’s website at:
http://www.glsd.k12.wi.us/faculty/aguay/mosquitonets.cfm

Our last days were tough. The trip seemed to be coming to an end quicker than expected or desired. On our last two nights, we had Ethiopian food and then a dinner at the Farm. It was so hard to say goodbye to everyone.

Steph with our Ethiopian dishes

Steph and I walking to the bus stop for the last time…

Us at the airport…

Some final notes:
I have bed bug bites all over my face, neck, and arms. It is not pretty. It basically looks like I have the chicken pox.

Thank you to everyone for all your encouraging comments, messages, and emails. I am so grateful to have supportive family and friends.

Zambia, the real Africa, I will be back!

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Jan 2-Jan 4, 2009
On Friday Steph and I headed to Siavonga, a town southeast of Lusaka. This town is situated on a steep hillside (mountainside?) and semi-surrounds Lake Kariba. We rode for 3.5 hours on a minibus that decided to fly down the curvy roads. It was quite the adventure, looking out at the rolling green mountains and hanging on for dear life.

We stayed at Lake Kariba Inn, which had villas and rooms staggered alongside the mountainside overlooking the lake. It had the most spectacular view.

The view from the road

We ate fish for dinner (I had Bream Mornay- yummy!). The next day our buddies, Andrew, Benson, and Charles came to join us. We took a boat ride out on the lake, where we actually crossed into Zimbabwe! We were in Zimbabwean waters! Andrew also spotted hippos bathing near shore. We were able to get pretty close before Andrew became frightened that the hippo would flip us (as he has seen in the movies). It was prettyyyy funny. Upon return we laid by the pool, snaked on biscuits, ate the most delicious buffet (including buttered chicken, lamb, beef, pizza, veggies, nshima, rice, salads, and desserts), and went to one of the local clubs (named No 1).

A little R&R

Steph and I having the time of our lives...

View from our room

The whole 5 weeks….
I have realized that I have only put up pictures from my outings or mini-vacations. I am missing one in particular: Lusaka. We walk the city everyday. We walk 30 minutes to the bus stop, head to town centre via the Great East Road, drop off at Millenium Bus Station or Klima Tower, and walk down Cha Cha Cha Road or Cario Road. Therefore, I want to share with you our daily routine sites.

Lusaka, off of Cairo Road

View of Downtown Lusaka

Off of Cha Cha Cha Road

The Project update: Transcriptionists are almost finished which is very exciting. We still have many more interviews to type up, but they are in English and not Njanja so this can wait until the States. We have completed all interviews (yay!) and are ready to do data analysis…. But not until we head down to Livingstone again! Steph and I loved it so much that we planned another trip down there. This time we are heading to another country, Botswana, which is only an hour drive. During our camping trip to Chobe National Park we will get to go on two safaris and on a river ride.

Amanda’s Green Lake School Class Project
As mentioned in the first blog my good friend Amanda teaches at Green Lake School in Wisconsin. Her students (3rd and 4th graders) wrote letters and colored pictures for children in Africa. They have also been raising money for mosquito nets to help stop the spread of malaria in Africa. The academic school year in Zambia is from mid-January to mid-December and therefore, I have not yet had the opportunity to go to a school due to the summer vacation. However, I have scheduled a meeting on Monday, Jan 12, with a group of students from a transit home. Since it is their first day of the school year, I am sure they won’t mind taking a break from their studies to say hello to new friends in Wisconsin!!

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Dec 28, 2008-Jan 1, 2009

I am sitting under a mosquito net, roasting in the heat. With all the rain the air is muggy. Walking in zero shade is miserable. My clothes don’t dry because the house is too damp and the outside clothesline is just asking for trouble during the rainy season. I am afraid to open my window because some creature is crawling on our roof. The guard says it’s a cat. Steph claims they are roof rats. I can handle many things, but not rats. It takes forever to boil pot after pot (we have small pots) of water to avoid cholera. In some places, we trek through puddles of water on dirt roads, which are made up of trash and sewage. The smell of garbage and filth fills our noses.

Despite the heat, the roof rats, and the stinky mud puddles, I am still 100% in love with Zambia. Recently, I have been traveling to places where I visited before: House of Moses, Kalimba Reptile Park, and my old neighborhood, Avondale. Probably the best thing is hearing people say, “Ah, hello! You are back! Welcome!� The snake man from Kalimba remembered me and handed me another python. (and yes, once again, I held a python!) The nurses at House of Moses remembered me and embraced me saying, “Thank you for not forgetting us.� My favorite taxi driver recognized me from afar and extended his hand.

Charles and Benson at Mother Teresa's Hospice

Me and the cutest little girl spinning and having fun

Me with Python!

Project Update
We have been interviewing many people. Mostly women and guardians. I have interviewed a few children (they must be over 8 years). We have not had any more problems with the recorders, except our batteries hardly last. We have found transcriptionists, and the Nanja and English paper copies are almost complete. We only have staff left to interview that will be completed within the final week. I am happy to say that our project seems to be a success (and therefore we can expect to graduate in May!).

Aside from our busy work recording, teaching, and visiting hospices and orphanages, we have been playing too. We have managed to make it to the crocodile farm, Adventure City (a water park), and some Lusaka clubs. We have been spending time with (or as they say here: “linkin’ up with� new friends. As Steph mentioned, when not working, we spend much of our time with Andrew, Benson, and Charles (ABC). Andrew is a volunteer from Maryland, Benson lives at the farm, and Charles visits the farm from the Copperbelt (Western Zambia). We call them the Three Musketeers or ABC for short. But since our linkin’ up we have changed the acronym to include us: ABCD and S. On New Year’s Eve we were with our new friends and new family. We celebrated 2009 with hugs, beers, and smiles. Steph and I even tried the infamous Zambian beer, Shake Shake (ground, fermented maize which has an thick milky grainy texture). It was not good at all! New Years Day we stayed at the farm eating pork roast, salads, sweet onions, and deviled eggs (made by us!).

Steph at our favorite cafe "CoffeeTalk Cafe" (Here we eat our favorite chocolate donuts!)

Steph as the Vanna White of Shake Shake

Trying Shake Shake before heading out

In Zenon, a club in Northmeade, celebrating New Years!!

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December 19-21, 2008

Second time around is always a charm, eh?! It was for me in Livingstone. Stephanie and I headed down south for about seven hours on a bus to the great land where the smoke that thunders (local name is mosi-oa-tunya) resides. Yes, one of the Seven Wonders of the World- Victoria Falls. The Falls is one of the most magnificent views I have ever witnessed. While you look at this monstrous waterfall, you 1) Get soaked by the spray, 2) Are left breathless, and 3) Are memorized at the amount of water pours into the Zambezi gorge.

Picture of falls

Note: The rainbow never ends- its a complete circle at the Falls!

We decided to live on the wild side and go white water rafting! We had Vinni, our guide, and four others with us. The Zambezi River has rapids that are level 5. The first one was called the Boiling Point, while others were called things like the Toilet Bowl and The Gnashing Jaws of Death. Basically, we had to paddle hard, get down, and hang on for dear life to survive the rapids. Steph was in front of me and so many times, we both flew up into the air or slipped down into the raft, but we kept on paddling. And guess what?! We never once tipped over. We were soaked and sunburned. The worst part was climbing up the gorge. Basically, an 80 degree wall of dirt, rocks, and a ladder made out of large sticks. Steph only had on flip flops, there was a rock fall which Steph’s ankle did not avoid (it is not broken!), and I learned how out of shape I really am.

Steph getting ready

Steph and I on the bus to our starting point- The Boiling Point

The view from the top of the ridge

The last time I was at the Falls, I wanted to bunji jump, but we ran out of time. I swore to myself that the next time I came around Zambia, I would jump off the 111meter high bridge, with only a rubberband saving me from the river below. This bridge connects Zambia and Zimbabwe, and the bunji jumping spot is in between the two countries. I was nervous at first, I think because I had just experienced the river during rafting. I stood at the very top of the bridge, where I got strapped to a safety harness around my torso and to a bunji cord tied to my feet. Two large towels were wrapped around my ankles to provide a cushion/barrier between my skin and the strap. The platform was cage-like and therefore I could see the raging river below. But no fear, I stepped to the edge. The men behind me were counting “5, 4, 3…� But I stopped them and said I didn’t need that (too much pressure!). So I looked back at the bridge, where a crowd had gathered. I asked them to start chanting, “Debby!, Debby!, Debby!� and when they did, I jumped! I flew like a bird, with my arms spread like wings. The free fall lasted four seconds and then the cord grabbed my ankles and I was bouncing up and down, up and down. And then it was over! It went by that quickly! I hung there waiting for my rescue man to bring me back up. My feet lost all circulation. And I was slipping (or so it felt that way!). The rush was over, but my adrenaline continued to pump.

Steph hugging me before I jump

Getting the harnesses on

Prepare for take off!

My free fall!

The Aftermath... two thumbs up!

Sorry for the late blogs. With the internet being iffy and with loving Zambia, it is hard to write on a regular basis! Happy New Year everyone!

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Wishing everyone happy holidays. We hear back home the season has been a white winter wonderland, however here its been a damp, lush-green holiday season. Yesterday we were invited by Jason Paltzer, Debby's former field experience preceptor, to join him and his family at their Christmas day church service. In the afternoon we were invited to the farm of the Dr. whom we work with here. His 10acre farm houses many unofficial foster children and friends so we were glad to be welcomed into this extended family holiday bbq. There was no turkey or ham, but some delicious Zambeef steaks along with stuffing, pasta salad, and gormet tomato salad provided by us! We danced, sang, and had a jolly ole time.

A tasty Christmas cake! yum yum yum!

We found Santa's LIttle Helpers preparing for the big night

Musicians spreading the holiday spirit at Manda Hill

This is for my worrisome mother, so she can see that I had a real christmas while here--it really does exist in Africa! While it wasn't traditional by our usual standards, it was just as pleasant and fun to experience other holiday traditions with new family and friends. We look forward to the next week and another upcoming holiday--Zambian New Years! For those of you back home, we're 8hours ahead so we'll ring in the New Year at 2pm Minnesota time. We'll give you a heads up about how things are in 2009.

Hello family and friends! As you can tell, we had a wonderful Christmas here. I did miss a few of the traditions from back home such as the brunch strata, the family around the fire, the jigsaw puzzle, and the familiar Christmas music playing in the background. But it is always good to experience something new. And the liver stuffing, friends around the balcony overlooking the pool, and the crazy dancing (Dr. Tim and his nshima dance!) were definitely new! I hope you all had (and continue to have) a great holiday back in the Midwest, the East Coast, the Southwest, or wherever else you may be! xoxo

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Dec 7-Dec 11 2008
Stephanie and I arrived in Nairobi after a gazillion hours of travel. However, the flying was more broken up than the last time I came to Africa, which I appreciated. We got into the country on a transit visa, which saved us $30. Yay for our negotiation skills! The time in Nairobi was our extended layover, which I must say was much more eventful than other layovers I have experienced.

Nairobi is not at all like Lusaka; it is very modernized, with taller buildings, parks, large shopping centers, etc. We stayed in a fancy hotel, equipped with a garden, a small gym, and a continental breakfast of omelets, fruits, croissants, cheese, and sandwich meat. Needless to say, I felt as if we were in States. UNTIL….

We came across the animals!
Our first stop was the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Elephant Orphanage. In Kenya, many baby elephants are found abandoned due to poaching of the mothers. This orphanage rescues the elephants, cares for them, and then reintroduces them to the wild. The orphanage is located in a National Park and so their reintroduction to the wild is not difficult at all. We saw two groups of elephants in the nursery- one was the younger batch, while the other was older. They treat the elephants just like a human infant is cared for. Workers watch for developmental milestones and give them the proper love and care they need.

They love to play in the mud!

Baby elephant getting fed

Next we headed to the Giraffe Center, where we were able to feed giraffes. The highlight: We were kissed by a Giraffe! The giraffes were eager to eat food both from our hands and our lips! His tongue was like sandpaper, so it wasn’t a slimy kiss, but nonetheless, it was very awkward.

MWAAAAAAAH!

And finally, we went on a Nature Walk. We had been under the impression that it was going to be a safari-like hike, but instead we saw animals behind fences. Since Stephanie can’t leave Africa without being on a real safari, we will have to travel to a Park in Zambia. I will not complain! On the nature walk, we saw were albino zebras, a white rhino, a leopard, and a cheetah, which were all new on my list of things to see in Africa. In fact, we were able to pet the cheetah! The animal-keeper lured the cheetah over to us, where we were inside the cheetah’s roaming territory. Slightly frightening at first, but he/she was just like a big lazy house cat, with rougher fur. And he/she runs way faster and eats antelope for dinner.

In addition, we visited Kazuri, which is a bead factory. This factory was started to give women a source of income. Beads are made here- starting from the clay and finishing with millions of beautiful painted and sometimes glossed beads. These beads are exported all over the world, and Kazuri does such a great job, they receive specific orders from their clients.

The clay beads drying before the paint job

Look at all the beautiful designs and colors!

The next day we decided to learn about Kenya’s history. We went to the National Museum, where we saw paintings, artifacts, stuffed animals (by taxonomy), bones from millions of years ago (including famous Lucy’s skeleton), and traditional clothing (including headdresses and crotch covers). We went to the Bomas of Kenya, where we watched traditional dances from all over Kenya. At Bomas of Kenya, they have 37 dances and 11 ethnic groups including Kikuyu, Luhya, Kalenjin, Taita, Maasai, Luo, Kuria, Kisii, Kamba, Mijikenda and Embu. The colors of the clothing, the sound of the music, the movements of the dancers, and the enthusiasm were spectacular. This was the first time Steph and I busted out the video camera! It allowed us to practice our AV skills and we can now share with everyone Kenya’s songs and dances.

XOXO from Africa

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Its that time of year again! Steph and I are heading to Africa!

In about 3 hours we will be on Kenyan Airways, heading to Nairobi, Kenya and then Lusaka, Zambia. We are sad to be missing the holiday season, and the Midwestern wintery weather, and of course all family and friends will be greatly missed, but what can we say, it’s AFRICA! With it being Zambia’s rainy season, we will be sweating in the 90 degree weather and wading through washed-out roads.

PROJECT!
Stephanie and I are heading to Zambia to collect data for our MPH Master’s Projects. We will be there for approximately 5.5 weeks while we complete a program evaluation of Tiny Tim and Friends. I am focusing on the care and treatment of HIV+ orphans and other vulnerable children aspect of the program, while Steph is focusing on the prevention on mother-to–child transmission of HIV. We will be conducting focus groups and interviews with the help of an interpreter.

SHOUT OUTS!
1. My dad for donating supplies such as hospital gowns, cloth diapers, and butt paste. These items will be given to the House of Moses and Mother Teresa’s Hospice, which are two places that I spent time at over this past summer. Many of the infants have severe diaper rash, so hopefully the soft cloths and the butt cream can help out their little bottoms!

2. Claire and Sam for donating their out-grown baby clothes. Its great that little children can help out others who live on the other side of the world. These two are an example for all.

3. Amanda Guay and her 3rd and 4th grade class at Green Lake School in Wisconsin. Amanda is a long-time friend of mine who decided to spread awareness about children who live in resource-poor areas. She conducted a November project where she taught the children about the children’s lives in Africa and the children wrote letters and colored pictures for students in Lusaka. I will be distributing the letters and pictures to schools around the city. It is so great that friendships across the globe can be created. Amanda's project also led to a Mosquito Net fundraiser by the children and their families. I encourage you all to check out Amanda’s classroom webpage to see more info and pictures: http://www.glsd.k12.wi.us/faculty/aguay/november.cfm

Thank you Amanda for being a dedicated and inspiring teacher and thank you to all the students for sharing your creative and compassionate hearts.

4. Stephanie’s mom for donating medical supplies such as vials and specimen containers. These are items that are necessary for proper testing and screening. Thanks Ms. Hengst!!!

And... away we go!
xoxo,
Debby

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