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July 26, 2008

Eldoret

Just returned tonight from my third trauma seminar - this one in the town of Eldoret. What an incredible group of people. Most of the participants were pastors, counselors, leaders in the community - committed to helping the traumatized people coming to them for relief. Over and over they tell me what a blessing I am to them, that what I have to say to them is just what they need to hear, won't I come back soon and give them more? And, they don't seem to know that I'm the one who is blessed, I'm the one who is given so much. I'm so grateful that I have these opportunities to be with these leaders. After the seminar, I met with 9 individuals who have been working in IDP camps with refugees - the stories of indignities, of abuse, of loss - I wonder just how much pain these individuals can continue to hold.

It felt good to return to work - I've had two weeks away from seminars/teaching/research which was good - but I'm glad to be getting back to the work that brought me here. My dad was in Kenya with a team from his church, I spent much of their visit with them in Naivasha. We took a day and a half to go on safari in the Maasai Mara - saw so many animals: zebra, giraffe, lions, wildebeests, waterbucks - it's an incredible way to spend a day!

This week I'm in Nairobi - alone at a friend's apartment - to do some writing for my PhD program as well as to write an application for a Fulbright Scholarship in hopes of returning to Kenya next year. I have fallen in love with Kenya and am more determined than ever to come back, hopefully in a permanent way. (If I'm repeating myself, sorry, can't remember what I wrote in my last couple entries!) I'm auditing a Swahili language course at the U this fall . . . my friends here tell me I'm doing a good job learning Kiswahili, but I can't yet carry on a conversation so I figure I'd better take a class!

Thanks to all of you who are reading my blogs and emailing/responding - I'm glad that you've enjoyed my entries - and it means a lot to me to have you tracking the trip with me! If I can find something exciting in my writing projects, I'll write later this week . . . otherwise, I'll wait for the following week: my final trauma seminar in a Nairobi slum.

July 8, 2008

Back "Home" in Nairobi

Kenya is starting to feel like a familiar place to me. I'm getting to know Nairobi like I've begun to know Kitale . . . and I'm really loving it here. I could see myself living here in Kenya . . . been thinking quite a lot about it. We'll see! I've even adjusted to driving on the other side of the road. If I do move to Kenya, you're all welcome!

I spent the weekend in Naivasha and will be going back there for about 10 days end of this week. Another beautiful place in the mountains looking down over the Rift Valley. It's about a 2 hour drive out of Nairobi, some of the land along the way is owned by the Delamere family. Those of you familiar with "Out of Africa" may remember Lord Delamere or "D" as he was referred to in the movie. Quite a lot of flower farms between Nairobi and Naivasha. Also, there is a large IDP camp . . . I'm hoping to have some interviews at that camp for my research. While in Naivasha, I stay in a round cottage - basically a great room which includes bedrom/living room/dining room with a fireplace, and a kitchen and bathroom off the big room. The view is spectacular. I have pictures, but haven't the internet time yet to download them. I hope to do that soon so you can see some of the places I've been.

Similar to my thoughts on Rwanda, I think about the juxtaposition between the richness of this place Kenya and the poverty that is here. There are parts of Kenya which still feel like off-shoots of England. There are roundabouts and people driving on the left side of the road, some of the buildings are so English in their design. I've met people who've lived in Kenya for 50-60 years, born in England or in Europe and have lived most of their lives in the bush. I'm not sure yet how I'm tying all this together - richness, poverty, colonialism - just noticing it right now.

For this week I'm in Nairobi - taking it easy, seeing people, setting up appointments, seeing some parts of the city I've not seen before. Sunday I went to the Masai Market . . .I'm extremely popular here (which is probably why I want to stay) - I'm a white woman, I have money. I've offered to show them my bank account but they're not buyin' it! I got myself a Masai blanket and some gifts. Markets can be a bit overwhelming - your arm is being grabbed all the time, "but madam I'm hungry" - you can feel like a real jerk sometimes. Some mzungus here never go to the markets - they shop in the Nakumatt (Kenya's answer to Target) and the supermarkets - mainly because they don't like the crush of the place. I can understand that . . .but, the craftsmanship, and the fresh vegetables and fruit!

Today I went to a beautiful glass factory which is part art gallery/factory/home/bed and breakfast called Kitengela Glass. Smack in Masai land - in the Kitengela Plains, the Masai Gorge runs alongside the factory. Vast spaces with thorn trees dotted here and there. Rutted roads - I can't believe my insides are still in the places they were originally placed - and it's absolutely beautiful. You can view for miles - I could see Nairobi from where I was in the distance. Turn a bit and I'm looking at the Ngong Hills. "Ngong" in Maa means "knuckle." It's said that God put his fist down and created the Ngong Hills. Again, "Out of Africa" starts out "I once had a farm in Africa at the foot of the Ngong Hills."

Tomorrow I have a massage at Karen Blixen's farm. Ok, enough movie references. Although, if you go to the Karen Blixen museum, you can see the pants Robert Redford wore in the movie. For some, that might be worth a trip to Kenya!! I am also meeting a counselor here in Nairobi who, among other things, wrote a book I used as a text for the Pre-Marital Counseling course I taught in June. I've been hoping to meet her to establish another contact here in the Nairobi counseling network.

I didn't think I had much to say this week . . .after reading this, you may think I didn't. But, here it is anyway! My uncle celebrated his birthday this past week - happy birthday, Ted. Of course, you know I put that in here to make sure you're reading my blogs :)

Life is good for me here - I'm so blessed to be here. My dad comes next week - I'm glad he'll get a chance to taste what I'm experiencing this summer. I feel your support and encouragement and love from home - thanks for that, and for keeping up with my trip. Talk to you later!

July 1, 2008

Gorillas

I didn't get to see them . . . I started the trek and wasn't able to finish it. Probably the gorillas had baked a birthday cake for me, and I didn't get to eat it. Disappointing, but I had some funny stuff going on with my heart and decided to stop. I'm fine - and was fine soon after I stopped - it was the right decision, but I wish I could have seen the gorillas for myself.

I had a wonderful driver who took me through Rwanda - and he did a great job making up for the gorillas. My next stop after trekking was to Gisenyi, near the DCR border. There's a beautiful, huge lake - Lake Kivu - there, reminds me a lot of Lake Superior. We sat at the beach and watched the water for a good long time - so that was great. Then, Petit (my driver) said there was a concert at the cultural centre. Great! I'm thinking it's going to be traditional Rwandan music and dancing.

It was a rap concert. With rap sung in french and kinyarwanda. And, I'm telling you, you haven't heard rap until you've heard it in a language you don't understand. It was great. No way will I ever have another birthday like this again :) I couldn't have chosen a better way to celebrate my birthday - I had a great time, and I highly recommend letting someone who has known you only 2 days decide how to spend your birthday! Thanks, Petit - definitely a memorable 45th!

Rwanda is beautiful and I'm so glad I was able to go. Still haven't figured out the beauty/tragedy stuff - still not comfortable with it - probably will never be, and I think I prefer it that way.

I'm back in Nairobi. Went to the Kibera slums today to hear a woman's story about her family's home being burned down in the post-election violence . . . she and her husband and children escaped, but not many of their few belongings did. I'm going back tomorrow to interview three people for my research project. I'll celebrate Fourth of July in Naivasha for the weekend -it's about an hour or so out of Nairobi.

Today - July 1 - is Rwanda's Independence Day. Happy 4th to my family and friends . . . I'll drink a warm Coke to you.